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Basics

Care is three steps, not ten

Cleanse gently, moisturise, protect from the sun: dermatologists around the world agree on this base. Everything else is optional, one product at a time. Here are the basics for any skin, any age and any gender, with sources.

Your skin type

A simple check: wash and wait. Skin type changes with age, season and climate, so check from time to time.

Wash with a gentle cleanser, pat your face dry and put nothing on it for 30 minutes. What is your skin like now?
Do new products ever make your skin sting, burn or turn red?

Your answers are neither saved nor sent anywhere. Cleveland Clinic: skin types and how to identify them; AAD: skin types · 21.11.2024

Skin: three steps

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, works as a barrier: it keeps water in and irritants out. Almost all care comes down to not breaking that barrier.

Cleansing: gentle, with warm rather than hot water, with your fingers, no rubbing; the face is washed in the morning, in the evening and after sweating. Moisturising: straight after washing; humectants draw water in, emollients and films hold it there. Sun protection: every day the UV index is 3 or higher; AAD dermatologists advise SPF 30 or higher, broad spectrum.

  • new products one at a time, so you can tell how your skin reacts
  • actives: not all at once, and not every day at the start
  • more products does not mean better: each one adds a chance of irritation
  • not smoking is among the AAD dermatologists’ top tips for healthy skin

Skincare: where to learn near you

See a dermatologist if a rash or itch does not go away, acne leaves scars, or a mole grows, changes colour or shape, itches or bleeds.

Sources (3)

Actives

“Actives” are the substances a product is usually bought for: retinoids, acids, vitamin C, niacinamide. They have the strongest research behind them, and the most frequent side effects: dryness, flaking, sun sensitivity.

Children and teenagers usually do not need them. AAD dermatologists put it plainly: for children aged 8–12, a gentle cleanser, a fragrance-free cream and SPF 30 are enough, while retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids irritate delicate skin and are for use only when a dermatologist prescribes them.

  • retinoids (retinol and its derivatives) raise sun sensitivity; during pregnancy, ask a doctor
  • AHAs (glycolic, lactic acid) exfoliate and raise sun sensitivity: you need protection while using them and for a week after (FDA)
  • salicylic acid (BHA) dissolves in the oil in pores
  • pure vitamin C oxidises quickly: once it darkens, it loses strength
  • strong prescription retinoids and acids come from a doctor only
Sources (1)

Hair

Hair above the skin is no longer living tissue: only the bulb in the skin is alive. So the lengths cannot be “cured”, only protected from friction, heat and chemicals. On the outside, the cuticle scales protect the hair like roof tiles.

Shampoo is for the scalp, where the oil and sweat are. Conditioner is for the lengths: it smooths the cuticle and removes static. How often to wash is up to your scalp, not the calendar.

  • losing 50–100 hairs a day is normal (AAD); a head has about 100,000 hairs
  • hair grows about 1–1.3 cm a month
  • tight ponytails, braids and buns every day can cause hair loss along the hairline: traction alopecia
  • use a hairdryer and straighteners on a medium heat; wet hair stretches, so comb it gently

Hair and barbering: where to learn near you

See a dermatologist if hair falls out in clumps, bald patches appear, or the scalp flakes, hurts or itches.

Sources (4)

Nails

A nail grows from the matrix under the cuticle. The cuticle is a natural seal: if you cut it or push it back hard, microbes get in more easily. AAD dermatologists advise leaving it alone, or at most pushing it back gently after a shower.

Fingernails grow about 3.5 mm a month, toenails about 1.6 mm (a 2010 study). Cut them straight across with sharp scissors, slightly rounding the corners.

  • gel polish and acrylics at a professional’s: their ingredients (methacrylates) are a common cause of allergy
  • at a salon, ask how the tools are sterilised
  • after trimming and in dry air, use hand and nail cream
  • a dark streak under a nail, lifting or a change of colour: see a doctor

Nails: where to learn near you

See a dermatologist if a dark streak appears under a nail, or a nail lifts, thickens or changes colour.

Sources (3)

Shaving and hair removal

Face, legs, underarms, head: whatever you shave, the rules are the same for everyone. Shaving does not make hair thicker or darker: this was tested as far back as 1928. The cut end is simply blunt, so the hair growing back feels coarser.

  • wet the skin and hair first, then apply gel or foam
  • shave in the direction the hair grows and rinse the blade after each stroke
  • change the blade after 5–7 shaves (AAD) for less irritation
  • ingrown hairs and inflammation that does not go away: see a dermatologist
Sources (2)

Make-up

Make-up is a tool, not an obligation. Foundation is matched to your undertone (warm, cool or neutral) and tested on the jawline in daylight.

Make-up also goes off and also carries microbes: mascara and eyeliner are yours alone, and brushes get washed regularly.

  • take make-up off before you sleep
  • wash brushes every 7–10 days, sponges after every use (AAD)
  • shop testers: with a disposable applicator, and not near the eyes (FDA)
  • periods after opening: on the Shelf page

Make-up: where to learn near you

Sources (2)

Fragrance

A scent unfolds in notes: top notes last minutes, heart notes hours, base notes longest of all. So a perfume is judged on the skin after some time, not by the first sniff.

Fragrance substances are one of the common causes of allergy to cosmetics. That is why, in the EU, the most common fragrance allergens are listed separately in the ingredients; you can see them on the Label page.

  • try scents on the skin, two or three at a time
  • store away from light and heat
  • do not apply to irritated skin or right after shaving
  • indoors, go easy: the people nearby need to breathe too
Sources (2)